Every Londoner threatens to drive to Cornwall and most never do. We finally did: packed the car, pointed it west, and kept going until the motorway ran out and the sea showed up. Two nights in St Ives with a two-year-old in the back. Here is the honest version, including the one warning nobody takes seriously until it is too late.
The drive: about six hours
London to St Ives is roughly six hours. We did it with two pit stops, one to charge the Tesla and one because a two-year-old has strong opinions about being strapped into a car seat for that long. The road in is genuinely scenic once you are past Exeter. Pace yourself, plan the charge stop around a meal, and it is a pleasant day rather than an endurance event.
Where we stayed: Tregenna Castle
We stayed at Tregenna Castle. Great location, great pool, and, being honest, that is mostly the list. The breakfast is not bad, and it is about a ten-minute walk down to the beach. As a base it does the job, especially with a small child and a pool to burn off the afternoons. Just go in expecting a solid base rather than a luxury retreat.
The beach, and a quiet word about leg day
The walk down to the beach is easy. Everything about going down is easy. It is the coming back up, with a two-year-old who has decided that walking is beneath her and must be carried, that turns a stroll into a workout. Thank god for Barry's Bootcamp. If you are bringing a toddler, know that the return leg is the real hike, and pack light.
The town
St Ives is genuinely cute. Parking is easy enough to find in the centre, but a warning for anyone used to London roads: the streets here are tiny and thin, and you will at some point find yourself threading a car down a lane that looks like it was built for a horse. Mind your mirrors, take it slow, and you will be fine. There are lots of cute cafes and shops, and prices are reasonable rather than the tourist-trap markup you might expect.
Beware of seagulls
This is the real public-service announcement. You cannot eat food out in the open in Cornwall. The seagulls are organised, fearless, and quick, and they will take everything from a slice of pizza to an ice cream straight out of your hand. We watched it happen to other people more than once. Eat undercover, hold your food like it owes you money, and never, ever turn your back on a chip.
Next time
We only had two nights, which was not enough to do the water properly. Next visit is for paddleboard or surfing lessons, or renting a boat for a few hours. There is a lot of coastline here that we only looked at from dry land.
The verdict
White-sand beaches, water that turns turquoise on a sunny day, cocktail and food spots facing the ocean, cute shops, and prices that will not ruin you. St Ives is a genuine must-visit. Three to four nights is the sweet spot: long enough to get on the water, short enough that the six-hour drive still feels worth it. Just remember the seagulls.